brian_parker
enthusiast
Reged: 09/01/2006
Posts: 218
Loc: East Riding of Yorkshire
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Hi everyone
I have just taken the plunge and developed my first E6 film, using the Jessops Photochem kit. The film was Fuji Velvia 50. I am disappointed that the slides have an overall blue cast. Can anyone tell me where I went wrong, as I followed the instructions to the letter, using my Jobo CPE-2 Processor? I read in the Jobo literature that it is advisable to add an extra minute to the first development time for Fuji films, but there was no mention of this in the Jessops leaflet. Would this make a difference to the colour rendering? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in anticipation
Brian Parker
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Malcolm_Stewart
Carpal \'Tunnel
Reged: 11/07/2005
Posts: 2541
Loc: Milton Keynes, UK
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I did a lot of E6 35mm processsing in a Jobo Duolab rotary tank system a few years ago. I remember doing several films before I'd sorted out pre-heating, temperature, aeration of the solutions (went to one shot processing to cure), de-ionised water for the rinse, stabiliser etc.
At that time, the best resource for queries like yours was the Jobo USA website. That fantastic resource appears now to have disappeared. (The Kodak site at the time seemed to be tilted towards the professional processing of E6.)
I suggest you google for "Jobo USA E6" and trawl through the many responses. I also got a lot of help using the Google Groups archives - search for "Jobo E6 3bath" or similar.
When I'd sorted out the other problems I've listed, I certainly found that Fuji films appreciated some extra time in the first developer, compared with Kodak & Agfa.
Good luck
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Malcolm Stewart
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Benchista
Wich Tyler
Reged: 11/08/2000
Posts: 37666
Loc: Everywhere and nowhere, baby
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From memory, I think a blue cast is indicative of out-of-range temperature. It's a long time since I've done any E6, and never used my CPE-2 for it, so I could well be wrong, though. I know magenta is normally a sign of exhausted colour dev, but I'm not certain about blue.
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Nick
www.nbrphoto.com
Light and Shade II - the new blog
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brian_parker
enthusiast
Reged: 09/01/2006
Posts: 218
Loc: East Riding of Yorkshire
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Thank you Malcolm and Nick
I shall certainly follow up your suggestions. The developer is newly purchased, so I don't think the reason is exhausted chemicals. And I shall give that extra minute in the first developer for Fuji films, and let you know how I get on. If the weather perks up, I shall be out with the camera again this weekend.
Thanks again
Brian
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CHIPS
Reged: 04/12/2000
Posts: 806
Loc: Northern Ireland
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Jobo Usa site was excellent when I used to use the rotary somewhat more. It might be wise to test the processor temperature ie actually measure with a thermometer rather than take the dial reading as correct - mine has never been as stable as it ought and I always work with a digital thermometer in the water or the chemicals.
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Benchista
Wich Tyler
Reged: 11/08/2000
Posts: 37666
Loc: Everywhere and nowhere, baby
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Agreed. The dial is only a guide, IMVHO.
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Nick
www.nbrphoto.com
Light and Shade II - the new blog
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brian_parker
enthusiast
Reged: 09/01/2006
Posts: 218
Loc: East Riding of Yorkshire
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Thanks folks
I feel that the temperature might have been out, perhaps a little on the warm side. I checked the chemicals with the Jobo spirit thermometer that came with the kit. Presumably a digital thermometer is more accurate. I will look out for one.
Today I did the exercise again wih Velvia 100F. This is for Module Two of the AP Diploma Course. I will develop the film tomorrow, extending the time of the first developer by a minute as recommended on the Jobo website and let you know how I get on.
Best wishes
Brian
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brian_parker
enthusiast
Reged: 09/01/2006
Posts: 218
Loc: East Riding of Yorkshire
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Hi everyone
I developed the slides today and they are much better. I have realised that it is necessary to increase the time of the first developer by a minute for Fuji films. I also aerated the bleach/fix as the Jobo site recommends. The slides are not brilliant, perhaps because I re-used the chemicals, but the densities are OK, and they illustrate the technical points we were asked to address in the Module. I'm on a learning curve.
Thanks for listening
Brian
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Malcolm_Stewart
Carpal \'Tunnel
Reged: 11/07/2005
Posts: 2541
Loc: Milton Keynes, UK
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Quote:
...I also aerated the bleach/fix as the Jobo site recommends...
It was some time before I picked up on the blix aeration business, and I found that I could then get better results by altering my camera's ISO a little.
Quote:
...perhaps because I re-used the chemicals..
I think you may have got away with it with just 4 days approx between sessions, but I seem to remember that 2 days was the recommended max time. Hence my earlier comment about 1 shot processing. Lovely consistent results, but more expensive than paying others to do the job for me!
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Malcolm Stewart
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brian_parker
enthusiast
Reged: 09/01/2006
Posts: 218
Loc: East Riding of Yorkshire
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Thanks for your input, Malcolm
Could you elaborate on the alteration to your camera's ISO please?
Brian
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Malcolm_Stewart
Carpal \'Tunnel
Reged: 11/07/2005
Posts: 2541
Loc: Milton Keynes, UK
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My first few films were processed without activating the blix by giving it a good shake before use. This meant that the film didn't clear properly, and the slides were somewhat muddy. After blix activation my slides were lighter, so I tried a higher ISO - about 1/3 stop from memory.
In the end I was very confident in my processing, and I was able to fine tune the overall slide density by varying the time of the first developer by the equivalent of 1/6 stop! (I was using an EOS3 which gives very consistent exposures.) But that did involve checking, fine adjusting, and re-checking the temperature inside the tank for the first development.
I filled a small note book with the adjustments (one at a time) and their effects. Then I bought an EOS10D etc. and it's so long since doing any E6 at home, that I don't trust the chemicals anymore.
I just might get back to home E6 as last night I projected my few last summer's holiday slides (processed by Peak Imaging) and had a good feeling that I haven't had seeing them on my light box or computer monitor!
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Malcolm Stewart
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airscrew
newbie
Reged: 21/01/2006
Posts: 10
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I just thought I'd mention that I use the same kit as the original post on this thread. The Jessops Photochem kit is excellent. I have never had a problem developing any colour films, and all I use is a standard Paterson Developing tank and a washing up bowl half filled with water at the correct 38 degrees temperature. Temperature control must be adhered to when processing colour film. I'm puzzled as to why there have been suggestions requiring the first development to be increased by one minute. I have only gone by Jessops instructions and results were consistent for all the six films this kit will process. You only should increase development time after the second film has been through the process. Glad to see people are still using film.
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Film is for life...Digital is for now.
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Benchmark
Is it safe?
Reged: 12/07/2005
Posts: 3008
Loc: Sedgefield, Co Durham
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I am surprised that you were able to buy a Jessops E6 kit. I was told by Jessops that the kits were discontinued some time ago, and the last kit I bought was well out of date.
TBH I was very disappointed by the results, which were dark and muddy, and have now moved to the five litre Tetenal kits (from Morco) for both C41 and E6. I find these excellent, and would thoroughly recommend them.
Aeration of the Blix also helps a lot, and produces much clearer looking films (both E6 and C41).
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Nigel.
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Nigel CRIPN and Bar
Beware of the Dark Slide
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